河海大學(xué)海岸動(dòng)力學(xué)試卷海岸答案

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1、1>higher-orderStokeswavethcories>conidialwavetheor>solitan^wavetheory2、rctlcction.diffraction3、Jetties,groins,breakwaterswaves4、wavesetdown,wavesetup5、frequencyspectrunudirectionaldistributionfunction6、Height.theirdirectionoftravela、1、Thewacvelocity,thephasevelo

2、cityorspeed(c)?Thewacvelocity,thephasevelocityorspeedcistheratethataparticularphaseofmotionminesalongthroughthemediumorIheratechatawaecrestmovesthroughihewater.I(canbecalculatedbydividing(hewavelengthbythewaveperiod.Itisthespeedofanindividualwave?cLT=k.—?、1、波速，相

3、速度或速度是一個(gè)特定的相在介質(zhì)中移動(dòng)的速率或水中波峰移動(dòng)的速率。它可以通過波長比周期進(jìn)行計(jì)算。2、Deepwater—forawaterdepthlargerthanhalfthewavelengthsh>1/2厶thephasespeedofthewavesishardlyinfluencedbydepth?Ihisisthecaseformostwindwavesontheseaandtheoceansurface?Intermediatedepth—torwaterdepth120L

4、ter—forawaterdepthsmallerthanthewavelengthdiidedby20,h

5、ratedbyflattroughs.Thiswaveshoalingcommencesatthedepthwherethewavesfeelthebottom.Thisdepthisaboutone-halfthedeep-waterwavelength.2、深水一一水深大于波長的一半，即/?>-,波的相速度很難被水深影響。深水情況2適用于很多由于?！?的風(fēng)在海面引起的風(fēng)浪；有限水深——水深厶

6、加直到波列由被平緩的波谷分隔的尖的波峰組成。(上一句冇點(diǎn)拗Uooo)我覺得后面的沒丿IJ,不翻譯了。Obliquelyincidentwaterwaveclimateandnearshorebathymetryarcresponsibleforthewave-inducedlongshorecurrents.Whenwavesbreakatanangle(o(hebeach,(hemomentumofthebreakingwavegeneratesonshorecurrentsthatflowinthedirectiono

7、fpixjpagationofthebreakingwaeanditsbore.Thepileupofwaleralongtheshoreresultinthegenerationoflongshorecurrentsthatflowparalleltothebeachinsidethebreakerzone.Longshorecurrentsmayflowinonedirectionalongtheshorebetweenthebreakersandtheshore.Thelongshorecurrentissiron

8、ges(whenthewaxesarehighandapproachingatagreateranglefromtheperpendiculartoshore?Ihehighestvelocitiesinalongshorecurrentaretypicallynearthewatersurfacean